Beauty in Truth: Anthropologie’s Lack of Brand Transparency
(Anthropologie’s March 2015 Catalog.)
Anthropologie’s latest catalog arrived in the mail over the weekend, and I spent a little time perusing it Friday night. I’ve written about this brand in the past and even dissected their site to find ethical clothing options, which is the way I shop these days. I just can’t seem to completely let this brand go, and I’ve been excited and hopeful as they sometimes work with ethical and fair trade lines.
But this month’s catalog left a bad taste in my mouth from my first glimpse at the cover, and I can’t say I’m really surprised at all. The lookbook is beautiful and was photographed in India, as you can see from the picture above. It’s filled with pages and pages of clothing inspired by India, but I can’t tell if they are actually made there, since most things are labeled as “Imported.” I’ve shared my frustration about this issue in the past, and it doesn’t seem to have improved over time. As I glanced at the pages, I was struck by the irony of this artfully directed shoot in an exotic location, filled with clothing that was, in most cases, made in a completely different country.
Looking through the catalog, I found three brands that sounded, simply by their names, like they might be based in India. Two were husband and wife design teams, Pankaj & Nidhi and Deepa Gurnani. Pankaj & Nidhi is a successful clothing brand based in India, so you can assume their clothing is made there, though it’s possible it’s not. But there’s no mention of production methods on their site. The second, Deepa Gurnani, is a line of jewelry inspired by India, but again, there’s no mention of production practices. To be completely fair, both lines may have completely above-the-board production methods, but offer no transparency.
The third brand really made me raise an eyebrow, when I discovered that Jasper & Jeera, a line of leather bags and accessories, is actually a trademark owned by Urban Outfitters, who in turn owns Anthropologie. There isn’t an actual site for Jasper & Jeera products, since it appears Anthropologie either designs or purchases the items and attaches a Jasper & Jeera label. According to Anthropologie’s site, “A trip around the globe surely will not yield as many handcrafted, artisanal finds as are designed by Jasper & Jeera each season. With an eye for the offbeat and the hand-touched, each piece showcases beading, embroidery and printing to the worldliest degree.” But seriously, what does that even mean?
According to this Mother Jones article, India is the third largest garment exporter in the world, after China and the European Union. While there are fair trade and artisan groups growing within the country, there are still many people working in unsafe and inhumane conditions within garment factories. Are these workers, many of whom are essentially slaves, producing clothing sold by Anthropologie, and if so, what does the company plan to do about it? Simply sweeping the issue under the rug, or in this case, distracting consumers with an Indian-sounding name owned by an American company, does nothing.
If these items are indeed made in India, why doesn’t Anthropologie just say so in the catalog? They clearly label items made in Spain or the United States, so what’s wrong with actually labeling a product’s country of origin, instead of the vague “Imported” description? It’s 2015, and customers are beginning to expect transparency within their favorite brands, so it’s definitely time for Anthropologie to jump on that bandwagon. Obviously, they understand the handmade, artisanal look their customers want, but without an explanation of the products’ origins, Anthropologie isn’t offering us the full package and is, in reality, misleading us.
I’ve noticed Anthro’s weird labeling techniques, too. I always assume that they conveniently leave off the country name when it’s a country known for labor violations or one that has less prestige in the fashion industry.
It’s upsetting that brands like Anthro essentially appropriate “exotic” countries’ aesthetics for the sake of creating a carefree mood that appeals to Western consumers instead of doing the right thing and supporting artisan groups. I agree that lack of transparency doesn’t always indicate corruption, but I would think they would use their good labor practices in advertising if they were following fair labor guidelines.
I first noticed the mislabeling on products made in the USA, and when I contacted the company, they acted like they didn’t understand what I meant. The actual tag on each product is required to list the country of origin, so I think the catalog should, too. Without going to the store and looking at each product, you can’t be sure where it’s made.
I totally agree with you. If a company is using fair labor guidelines, it will only benefit them to advertise their practices. Not doing so makes it look like they are covering up something.
I haven’t seen this lookbook in person yet, but this also leaves a bad taste in my mouth. India is home to great wealth, but it is also the modern slave capital of the world. If this is not just an oversight but intentional misleading of customers, it would prevent me from buying from anthro.
Yes, it’s very frustrating because Anthropologie does carry some actual fair trade brands and works with smaller designers here in the United States. They really need to step up the transparency issue, though.
Wow, you’d think in a lookbook that was shot in India that they wouldn’t have to hide that some of the clothes might be made in India?! That’s so bizarre. And what a bummer, because the photo you have of the book is gorgeous. I love that woman’s pink hands!
Yes, it’s so gorgeous. I wish they would just work on being more open. 🙁
Thank you for writing this.
I’m glad I’m not the only who was left with a bad taste in their mouth after receiving the latest Anthro catalog. I won’t deny the photography was gorgeous, but it all just felt wrong: the lack of transparency, the use of Indian people as background filler, a$500+ shirt advertised right next to an image of an Indian woman (the one applying henna) who may not make more than that in a few months’ time.
Also, I just recently discovered your blog (as in today!), and I love it 🙂
Hi, Kimberly! Thank you so much for your comments and for stopping by.
Preach! It’s not just Anthro who does this. Almost every large retailer just says “Imported.” You’re right – if they are required to list the country of origin on the label, they should be required to do so on the site, too!
I’ve also been very put out by all the Mexican themed ads for Macy’s lately … featuring white girls wearing clothing inspired by Mexico. Cool, America. Force your southern neighbor into poverty through trade policies, simultaneously encourage and punish them for drug exportation, then exploit their culture to enrich and clothe ourselves. Ick, ick, ick.
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I noticed most of their tags now say “Made in Vietnam” I just have a bad feeling it is sweat shopped. Plus the cost is ridiculous high for one piece of clothing.
[…] sold for hundreds of dollars in stores such as Anthropologie (a wonderful critique can be read here), without any credit to the techniques and handiwork done to create that piece, you really start to […]